Foreign vineyards: a closer look at South African wines

Vignobles étrangers : zoom sur les vins d'Afrique du Sud

South African winegrowing is still little known around the world, yet over the past 25 years, South Africa has become the world’s 8th-largest wine-producing country, ahead of Germany and China. It ranks alongside Australia and Chile.

There are no fewer than 122,000 hectares of vines and more than 600 million liters produced there. That is more than the Bordeaux wine region!

In addition to ranking highly in terms of production volume, South African wines stand out for their quality. For several years now, some of the country’s wines have been ranked among the best in the world! Enough to tempt us to try these wines, still rarely enjoyed at our tables, and learn more about them.

History of winemaking in South Africa

South African winegrowing has experienced a renaissance since the end of apartheid, drawing on the diversity of its terroirs and climates.

Winegrowing in South Africa developed from the 17th century onward and expanded with the arrival of more than two hundred French Huguenots during the French Wars of Religion. It is the only New World country to have established a prestigious wine, Constantia, which was served at the tables of many European monarchs in the 18th century. This dessert wine was considered one of the greatest wines in the world. However, the successive British takeovers of the Cape in 1795, 1806, and 1914 caused South African winegrowing to decline. Finally, the arrival of phylloxera and powdery mildew in the 1860s brought Constantia production to an end.

Today, the Stellenbosch and Paarl districts account for 45% of wine production.

Many owners of French origin maintained the French presence by producing red and white wines that met European standards: Pierre Jourdan at Cabrières Estate, Anne Cointreau, a descendant of the family that owned the liqueur of the same name, and Benjamin de Rothschild, who partnered with the Rupert family. Some wineries still belong to the descendants of these families.

Wine regions and terroirs

South African wine country has a predominantly Mediterranean climate, with variations depending on the vineyard’s position relative to the ocean. Located between 27° and 34° south latitude, the geographical position of South African wine country can be compared with Morocco in terms of climate. The cooler Western Cape is said to have a climate similar to that of Languedoc-Roussillon in France.

The difference from the Mediterranean climate lies in the fact that, unlike the Mediterranean Sea, the Atlantic and Indian Oceans create powerful cold currents (Benguela Current). Breezes from the south then cool the coastal areas, promoting slow grape ripening and making it possible to grow varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are more commonly found in Burgundy and Alsace in France.

These climatic conditions have largely determined the location of vineyards in the Cape region. Indeed, vineyards are rarely found more than 50 kilometers inland, where the climate is less favorable. The Cape mountain ranges also contribute to the emergence of numerous microclimates, enhancing the diversity of the terroirs and the production of South African wines.

South African wine country is mainly located on an ancient eroded Cambrian massif. It is planted on schist and granite soils. The Stellenbosch and Paarl regions consist of clay soils that retain water, ensuring beneficial moisture for the vineyards during the summer.

South African winegrowing has developed rapidly since the 1980s thanks to increasingly advanced techniques such as mechanization, irrigation, the use of yeasts, fermentation temperature control, and acidification.... This development made it possible to produce consistently high-quality wines that were easy to sell but highly standardized. That is why, in recent years, a growing number of winemakers have decided to position their wines in the premium segment and adopt a more quality-focused approach so that South African wine country can earn a place on the finest tables.

Committed to developing good viticultural practices as part of sustainable development, South Africa is the world’s leading producer of Fair Trade-certified wine.

South African wines

Today, South African vineyards are planted with 56% white grape varieties and 44% red grape varieties, compared with 84% white grape varieties in the 1990s. Chenin Blanc remains the leading grape variety in South Africa, accounting for 18% of plantings, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon at 12%.

Chenin Blanc is locally known as “Steen.” The variety’s ability to produce high yields while retaining a certain level of acidity, even in South Africa’s hot climate, makes it particularly interesting for the country’s vineyards. It made it possible to produce large volumes of white wine and sell them cheaply. These entry-level white wines are moderately full-bodied, with citrus aromas, especially lemon.

For several years, they have coexisted with high-quality Chenin Blanc wines. It is more specifically in the Cape Town region, which enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate without extreme heat thanks to the marine currents, that great Chenin Blanc wines are produced. The wines have lovely freshness, tangy peach notes, and additional flavors resulting from aging in new wooden barrels.

Pinotage is becoming increasingly prominent. This variety, created in 1925 in Stellenbosch (about fifty kilometers from the city of Cape Town), is the result of a cross between Pinot Noir (from Burgundy) and Cinsault (from Provence). Cinsault was historically called Hermitage in South Africa. This is why the name Pinotage was given to the variety, a contraction of Pinot and Hermitage. This unique variety produces powerful, tannic wines with a dark color. On the palate, it offers intense aromas of red fruit, candied fruit, cinnamon, and licorice. Pinotage took time to be fully developed because winemakers struggled to find the best natural conditions and winemaking methods to allow it to express its full potential. Today, it is a source of pride for South African winemakers.

South African wines struggled to establish themselves worldwide because they arrived on the market very late. Today, 50% of South African wine production is exported, making it a genuine success.

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