During this winter holiday season, which for many means a mountain getaway, Domaine du Goût has taken a closer look at mountain wines. A must-have during winter holidays, after a day of skiing down the slopes, mountain wines have gained increasing recognition in recent years. They are also generally paired with the mountain dishes we love so much!
The special characteristics of mountain wines
Although it is true that these wines account for only 5% of the world's planted vineyard area, this makes them a major asset. Indeed, at altitude, there are fewer pests, and vine diseases are also rarer. As a result, thanks to these specific characteristics, producers can more easily produce organic and biodynamic wines.
These wines share great resilience due to their geographical isolation and temperature variations.
Today, it is also recognized that these wines gain quality more quickly because of the altitude. Lower atmospheric pressure therefore creates more favorable conditions for the wine's development, as do the lower oxygenation level and humidity level, which is around 13% at altitude (compared with 70% in the valleys). The wines are said to be longer, denser, and more harmonious, and to age better and more quickly.
Although many of these vineyards share grape varieties such as Pinot or Chardonnay, each mountain wine-producing region has grape varieties of its own. This results in different wines thanks to these diverse terroirs. In the Jura, for example, you will find Poulsard and Trousseau, while Marsanne is found in the Alps.
The different mountain wines
Jura wines
The Jura has been cultivating vines since the Gallic/Celtic era. At that time, its wine exports crossed borders, reaching the Roman Empire and the rest of the Mediterranean basin through river trade.
Today, the Jura wine region represents 0.2% of France's vineyards. Consequently, it has a low production volume compared with the French wine market (approximately 60 hectoliters). However, the wine region stands out through its unique oenological character and the quality of its production.
Grape Varieties and AOCs
Jura cultivates five different grape varieties. Each has its own characteristics and is adapted to the soil, climate, and exposure.
The red grape varieties include: poulsard, the main and most widely planted red grape variety in Jura wines, covering 25% of the cultivated area. It produces aromatic and rather delicate wines. Trousseau, a grape variety originating in Portugal, where it is called “bastardo.” It produces wines that are high in alcohol, delicate, and full-bodied. Finally, pinot noir has been present in Jura for just as long as in Burgundy and produces full-bodied red wines with excellent aging potential. Wines made from Jura pinot noir are more mineral than their Burgundian counterparts.
The white grape varieties include: savagnin, an ancient grape variety believed to have originated in Tyrol, Austria, or Italy. It produces full-bodied, powerful white wines suitable for aging while remaining balanced. It is the grape variety used to make yellow wine. There is also chardonnay, which produces mineral, full-bodied, powerful wines with good acidity and aging potential.
The wine region has six appellations of controlled origin (AOC) and one protected geographical indication:
Two product designations: AOC Macvin du Jura; AOC Crémant du Jura.
Five geographical designations: AOC Côtes du Jura; AOC Arbois; AOC Château-Chalon; AOC L'Étoile; protected geographical indication Coteaux-de-l'Ain Revermont.
The advantage of Jura wines
The yellow wines typical of the region are oxidative wines. They are aged for more than six years in topping-up barrels before being bottled. Over time, some of the wine evaporates, and its contact with the air causes oxidation. Subsequently, a veil of yeast forms on the surface, allowing aromas specific to yellow wine to develop.
Straw wines are sweet wines. They are made from grapes that have previously been dried on straw.
Savoie wines
Grape growing in Savoie dates back to antiquity. At that time, the quality of the region’s wines was already recognized and was said to be inspired by Greek expertise.
Savoie produces white, red, and rosé wines, as well as sparkling and still wines, both dry and sweet.
Recognized since 1973, the Savoie wine region covers 1,800 hectares and 4 departments, including 28 communes in Savoie, 20 communes in Haute-Savoie, 2 in Ain, and finally 1 in Isère. This wine-growing region is also characterized by its diversity of grape varieties. In fact, it has no fewer than 23, making it possible to produce highly varied wines.
Since it is planted mainly on hillsides, the vineyard’s exposure in terms of sunlight has a significant influence on the quality of the grapes and the types of wines produced.
Among the red grape varieties used in Savoie wines are Gamay and Mondeuse, the main varieties used. Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Persan are also found. In Isère, these are Nouveau Persan, Étraire de la Dhuy, Servanin, and Joubertin.
White wines account for 70% of production in Savoie. The grape varieties used for these whites are Jacquère, Altesse, and Mondeuse. Aligoté and Chardonnay are also found.
In Haute-Savoie: Chasselas, Gringet, and Roussette d’Ayze. In Isère: Marsanne and Verdesse. Finally, for rosé: Veltliner (an early-ripening red variety).
Bugey wines
Bugey is a wine-growing region located in the Ain department, between the Savoie and Jura wine regions.
It was during the Middle Ages that grape growing developed, thanks to the monks who had decided to cultivate vines on the territories of their abbeys. In the 17th century, Bugey became French through the Treaty of Lyon.
This little-known vineyard stretches between 220 and 550 meters above sea level, over an area of 909 hectares, including 197 hectares for the Bugey and Roussette de Bugey appellations and 95 hectares for the Seyssel appellation. The vineyard extends across three areas: Montagnieu, Belley, and Cerdon.
The Bugey AOC produces still red, white, and rosé wines, as well as sparkling white and rosé wines.
The grape varieties found in Bugey are Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Poulsard for red wines, and Chardonnay and Altesse (known as Roussette) for white wines. White wines may also be made from Molette, Jacquère, and Aligoté vines.
Three AOCs covering five geographical designations, as well as three IGPs, have been identified in Bugey:
- Bugey (AOC), including: Cerdon (AOC); Manicle (AOC); Montagnieu (AOC).
- Rousette du Bugey, including: Montagnieu (AOC); Virieu-le-Grand (AOC).
- Seyssel (AOC); departmental IGP: Coteaux-de-l’Ain Valromey and regional IGPs: Comtés-Rhodaniens and Vin des Allobroges.
Bugey has a remarkable wine: Cerdon, a sweet, fruity sparkling rosé that is the opposite of the traditional wines produced in the region.
The mountain wines of the Hautes-Alpes
In this region, winemaking is a tradition dating back to Antiquity.
Located between 600 and 100 meters above sea level, its geographical setting and wide temperature variations give this region highly unusual wines.
The Hautes-Alpes vineyard covers 130 hectares, which is a drop in the ocean on a global scale. However, the originality of its wines fits perfectly into the diversity of French wines.
Located on the hillsides of the Durance and in the Avance Valley, the grapes benefit from optimal sunshine, making it possible to produce high-quality wines, combined with the diversity of the soils and the altitude.
The wine produced in the Hautes-Alpes is a country wine available in three colors: red, white, and rosé (50% red, 20% white, and 30% rosé).
The reds are rather tannic and give off notes of red fruit. The whites are lively and very mineral (this is due to the terroir). Finally, like the whites, the rosés are lively and have red fruit aromas. They are often made from Syrah and Cinsault.
Mountain wines of the Pyrenees (from Roussillon to Pyrénées-Orientales)
The Pyrénées-Orientales account for 2% of wine production in France. The region ranks ninth among France's wine-producing departments. It produces dry wines and naturally sweet wines (80% of France's naturally sweet wines).
In Roussillon, vineyards cover 25 4000 hectares, and the yield is 28 hectoliters per hectare.
This wine-growing region experiences sharp climatic and geological contrasts, resulting in highly varied terroirs.
There are 8 AOPs and 4 IGP Vins de Pays: Banyuls (VDN); Bartisoll; Collioure (AOC), Côtes-du-Rousillon; Côtes-du-Rousillon-villages; Domaine de la Rectorie; Langudoc (AOC); Maury (AOC); Muscat-de-Riversaltes (VDN); Vabé.
The main grape varieties for reds and rosés are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan.
For white wines, Chardonnay, White Grenache, Viognier, and Muscat are the main grape varieties.
Dishes to pair with our mountain wines
When we think of the mountains, we also think of the dishes we love to eat with these wines. Fondue, raclette, and tartiflette are, of course, among them.
But how should these dishes be paired with the wines?
It's simple! The best pairing is a regional one. Jura wines are therefore enjoyed with cheeses such as Comté, as well as with morels or traditional regional dishes such as poularde cooked in yellow wine.
Savoie wines are perfect with tartiflette, Savoyard fondue, or gratin de crozets with white wines. For reds, opt for charcuterie.
The white wines of Bugey are perfect with raclette and fondue. As the region is also known for its frogs and crayfish, these wines also pair well with fish and shellfish, as well as white meat. The reds are excellent with cheese and charcuterie. With a Pinot Noir, red meat or game is preferable.
Finally, the wines of the Pyrenees pair easily with sheep's tomme cheese or foie gras.
Mountain viticulture abroad
Among our closest neighbors, mountain viticulture is also a long-standing tradition. On the other side of the Alps, in Switzerland’s Valais and in Italy’s Aosta Valley.
Spain should not be overlooked, with a vineyard at an altitude of 1,400 meters located on the Canary Islands.
On the other side of the Atlantic, the vineyards of Chile and Argentina extend along the foothills of the Andes.
Finally, the record belongs to Argentina, where the highest vineyard in the world can be found at an altitude of 3,111 meters.
A typical specialty of our mountain holidays: Mulled wine
Origins of mulled wine
Mulled wine, a true French mountain delicacy, is another tradition inherited from the Roman Empire. Indeed, around 20 AD, the first mulled wine was made, then called “conditum parodoxum.” It consisted of boiled wine to which honey was added, followed by roasted date pits, dates soaked in wine, and spices such as bay leaf, saffron, pepper, nard and mastic. Once prepared, this wine was then mixed with good-quality wine to create a pleasant blend on the palate.
It was during the Middle Ages that the production and consumption of spiced wines subsequently spread throughout Europe, with the arrival of new spices such as cinnamon, cloves and cardamom.
In France, it was at the end of the 19th century that sweet cinnamon mulled wine, then called “French wine,” became popular. It was served in every inn, particularly in the Alps.
Mulled wine today
Served and consumed during the winter season, mulled wine has become an immensely popular tradition in our country, particularly at Christmas markets and equally in the mountains during winter sports holidays.
Popular in our country, it is even more so among our Scandinavian neighbors, particularly in Sweden, ever since King Gustav, a great lover of this beverage, decided to spread it throughout the country. Since then and to this day, every Swedish household has prepared its own mulled wine, called Glögg (heated wine).
It is also highly appreciated in neighboring eastern countries such as Switzerland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Austria and the Czech Republic, as well as Romania.
