In this winter holiday season, synonymous for many with mountain vacations, Domaine du Goût has focused on mountain wines. Essential for winter holidays, after a day skiing down the slopes, mountain wines have been gaining increasing recognition for several years. They are also generally paired with the mountain dishes we love so much!
The specificities of mountain wines
While it is true that these wines represent only 5% of the vineyard area planted worldwide, this makes them a major asset. Indeed, at altitude, there are fewer predators and vine diseases are also rarer. As a result, thanks to these characteristics, producers have an easier time producing organic and biodynamic wines.
These wines share a great resistance due to their geographical isolation and temperature variations.
Today, it is recognized that these wines improve in quality more quickly due to altitude. Lower atmospheric pressure would therefore create more favorable conditions for the wine’s development, as well as lower oxygenation levels and humidity around 13% at altitude (compared to 70% in the valleys). The wines tend to be longer, denser, and more harmonious, and they age better and faster.
While many of these vineyards share common grape varieties such as pinot or chardonnay, each mountain wine-producing region has its own unique grape varieties. This results in different wines thanks to these varied terroirs. For example, you will find poulsard and trousseau in Jura, or marsanne in the Alps.
The different mountain wines
- Jura wines
Jura has been cultivating vineyards since the Gallic/Celtic era. At that time, its wine exports crossed borders to reach the Roman Empire and the rest of the Mediterranean basin thanks to river trade.
Today, the Jura vineyard represents 0.2% of the vineyard in France. Consequently, it has a low production level compared to the French wine market (about 60 hectoliters). However, the vineyard stands out for its unique oenological personality and the quality of its production.
- The Grape Varieties and AOCs
Jura cultivates five different grape varieties. Each of these varieties has specific characteristics and adapts to the soil, climate, and exposure.
Among the red grape varieties are: poulsard, the main and majority red grape of Jura wines, covering 25% of the cultivated area. It produces aromatic and rather delicate wines. Trousseau, a grape variety originating from Portugal where it is called "bastardo." It produces wines rich in alcohol, fine and full-bodied. Finally, pinot noir, present in Jura as long as in Burgundy, produces full-bodied red wines with great aging potential. Jura pinot noir wines are more mineral than their Burgundian neighbors.
Among the white grape varieties are: savagnin, an ancient grape variety that likely comes from Tyrol in Austria or Italy. It produces full-bodied and powerful white wines suitable for aging, while remaining balanced. It is responsible for yellow wine. There is also chardonnay, which produces mineral, broad, powerful wines with good acidity and aging potential.
The vineyard has six controlled designation of origin (AOC) and one protected geographical indication:
Two product appellations: AOC macvin du Jura; AOC crémant du jura.
Five geographical appellations: AOC côtes-du-jura; AOC arbois; AOC château-châlon; AOC l’étoile; protected geographical indication Coteaux-de-l’Ain Revermont.
- The advantage of Jura wines
The typical yellow wines of the region are oxidative wines. For more than six years, they are aged in used barrels before bottling. Over time, part of the wine evaporates and its contact with air causes oxidation. Subsequently, a yeast film forms on the surface, allowing the development of aromas specific to yellow wine.
Straw wines are sweet wines. They are made from grapes previously dehydrated on straw.
- The wines of Savoie
The cultivation of vineyards in Savoie dates back to antiquity. At that time, the quality of the region's wines was already recognized and is said to be inspired by Greek know-how.
Savoie alone produces white, red, rosé wines, sparkling wines, and still wines, dry or even sweet.
Recognized since 1973, the Savoie vineyard covers 1800 hectares and 4 departments, including 28 communes in Savoie, 20 communes in Haute-Savoie, 2 in Ain, and finally 1 in Isère. This wine region is also characterized by its diversity of grape varieties. Indeed, it counts no fewer than 23, allowing for the production of highly varied wines.
Being mainly planted on hillsides, the quality of the vineyard's exposure in terms of sunlight greatly influences the quality of the grapes and the types of wines produced.
Among the red grape varieties of Savoie wines, there are gamay and mondeuse, which are the main varieties used. Pinot noir, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, and persan are also found. In Isère, these are the new persan, étraire de la Dui, servanin, and joubertin.
White wines represent 70% of the production in Savoie. The grape varieties used for these whites are jacquère, altesse, and mondeuse. Aligoté and chardonnay are also found.
In Haute-Savoie: chasselas, griget, and Ayze rousette. In Isère: marsanne and verdresse. Finally, in rosé: veltiner (which is an early red).
- The wines of Bugey
Le Bugey is a vineyard located in the Ain department, between the Savoie vineyard and the Jura vineyard.
It was in the Middle Ages that vine cultivation developed thanks to monks who decided to grow it on the lands of their Abbeys. In the 17th century, Bugey became French thanks to the Treaty of Lyon.
This little-known vineyard extends between 220 and 550 meters in altitude, over an area of 909 hectares including 197 hectares for the Bugey and Roussette de Bugey appellations, and 95 hectares for the Seyssel appellation. The vineyard covers three zones: Montagnieu, Belley, and Cerdon.
The Bugey AOC produces still red, white, and rosé wines, as well as sparkling white and rosé wines.
The grape varieties found in Bugey for red are gamay, pinot noir, and poulsard, and for white: chardonnay and altesse (called roussette). You can also find white vines of molette, jacquère, and aligoté.
Three AOCs covering five geographical denominations, as well as three IGPs, are identified in Bugey:
Bugey (AOC) including: Cerdon (AOC); Manicle (AOC); Montagnieu (AOC).
Roussette du Bugey, including: Montagnieu (AOC); Virieu-le-Grand (AOC).
Seyssel (AOC); departmental IGP: Coteaux-de-l’Ain Valromey and regional IGPs: Comtés-Rhodaniens and Vin des Allobroges.
Bugey has a surprising wine: Cerdon, a sweet and fruity sparkling rosé wine that is the opposite of the traditional wines produced in the vineyard.
- The mountain wines of Hautes-Alpes
In this region, vine growing is a tradition that dates back to Antiquity.
The vineyard, situated between 600 and 1000 meters in altitude, has a geographical location and strong temperature variations that give this region wines that are more than atypical.
The Haut-Alpine vineyard covers 130 hectares, which is a grain of sand on a global scale. However, the uniqueness of its wines fits perfectly into the diversity of French wines.
Located on the slopes of the Durance and in the Avance valley, the grapes benefit from optimal sunlight which allows the production of very high-quality wines combined with the diversity of soils and altitude.
The wine produced in Hautes-Alpes is a country wine that comes in three colors: red, white, and rosé (50% red, 20% white, and 30% rosé).
The reds are rather tannic and give off red fruit notes. The whites are lively and very mineral (this is due to the terroir). Finally, the rosés, like the whites, are lively and have red fruit aromas. They are often produced from syrah and cinsault.
- The mountain wines of the Pyrenees (from Roussillon to Pyrénées-Orientales)
The Pyrénées-Orientales represent 2% of wine production in France. The region ranks 9th among wine-producing departments. It produces dry wines and natural sweet wines (80% of France's natural sweet wines).
In Roussillon, the vineyards cover 25,400 hectares and the yield is 28 hectoliters per hectare.
This wine region experiences strong climatic and geological contrasts, resulting in very different terroirs.
There are 8 AOP and 4 IGP Vins de Pays: Banyuls (VDN); Bartisoll; Collioure (AOC), Côtes-du-Roussillon; Côtes-du-Roussillon-villages; Domaine de la Rectorie; Languedoc (AOC); Maury (AOC); Muscat-de-Rivesaltes (VDN); Vabé.
The main grape varieties for reds and rosés are grenache, syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault, or carignan.
For the whites, chardonnay, grenache blanc, viognier, and muscat are the main grape varieties.
The dishes that accompany our mountain wines
When we think of the mountains, we also think of the dishes we love to eat with these wines. Of course, we find fondue, raclette, or tartiflette.
But how to pair these dishes with the wines?
It's simple! The best is the regional pairing. Thus, Jura wines will be enjoyed with cheeses like comté, also to be tasted with morels or traditional regional dishes like poularde with yellow wine.
For the wines of Savoie, they go perfectly with tartiflette, Savoyard fondue, or a crozets gratin for the white wines. For the reds, bet on charcuterie.
The white wines of Bugey will perfectly accompany raclette and fondue. The region is also known for its frogs and crayfish, so it will also pair well with fish and shellfish, or with white meat. The reds will wonderfully accompany cheeses and charcuterie. With a pinot noir, red meat or game is preferred.
Finally, the wines of the Pyrenees pair easily with sheep's tomme or foie gras.
Mountain vine growing abroad
Among our closest neighbors, mountain viticulture is also a great tradition. On the other side of the Alps, Switzerland in Valais but also Italy in the Aosta Valley.
Spain should not be overlooked, with a vineyard at 1400 meters altitude located on the Canary Islands.
On the other side of the Atlantic, the vineyards of Chile and Argentina are located on the foothills of the Andes Mountains.
Finally, the record goes to Argentina where you can find the highest vineyard in the world at 3111 meters altitude.
A typical specialty of our mountain holidays: Mulled wine
- Origins of mulled wine
Mulled wine, a true mountain gastronomic specialty in France, is a tradition that still comes from the Roman Empire. Indeed, around 20 AD, the first mulled wine was made, then called "conditum paradoxum." Its composition was boiled wine to which honey was added, then roasted date pits, dates soaked in wine, and spices such as bay leaf, saffron, pepper, nard, and mastic. Once this wine was made, it was then mixed with good quality wine to obtain a pleasant blend on the palate.
It was in the Middle Ages that the production and consumption of spiced wines spread throughout Europe with the arrival of new spices such as cinnamon, clove, and cardamom.
In France, it was at the end of the 19th century that a sweet mulled wine with cinnamon, then called "vin à la française," became popular. It was then served in all inns, especially in the Alps.
- Mulled wine today
Served and consumed during the winter season, mulled wine has become a tradition more than popular in our country, especially at Christmas markets and equally in the mountains during winter sports holidays.
Popular in our country, it is even more so among our Scandinavian neighbors, particularly in Sweden, since King Gustav, a great fan of this drink, decided to spread it throughout the country. From then on and until today, every household in Sweden prepares their own mulled wine called Glögg (heated wine).
It is also highly appreciated by our neighbors to the East such as Switzerland, Belgium, the Netherlands, Austria, the Czech Republic, and also Romania.
